Select suitable flower branches for cutting

Cutting is not just cutting a flower branch. As long as we choose the flower branch, cutting can take root faster and the seedlings will be stronger

1. Choose 1-year-old and strong branches

Take rose as an example. It's best to cut off the green branches with many buds, and not the aged and lignified branches; Do not use thin twigs

It's best not to use those with spots. They may be diseased and have a high risk of cutting

2. The length is 8-15 cm, with 2-3 bud points

There is no special requirement for the length of the intercepted branches. Some flowers are relatively small, such as geranium, sunflower, etc., which can be cut by 6cm. Roses, Trigonella, etc. can grow a little, with at least two bud points

Cutting matrix and depth

1. With sandy and breathable soil

It is best to use sandy soil, perlite and cinder soil for cutting. These soils are moisturizing and breathable, which is conducive to the respiration of branches and stems

2. It's best to use transparent plastic cups

It's better to use transparent plastic cup for novice cutting, so it's easier to observe whether there is too much water, rotten and hair root

Don't move the branches. Don't be curious. Pull them out and have a look. Cut them with a small transparent cup. You can see when they grow roots

3. Cutting depth

The depth of cutting is 2-5cm, depending on the variety of flowers. Do not cut too deep, which is easy to rot. The lowest bud on the branch should not be inserted into the soil, but should be left on the soil surface

Curing after cutting

1. Environment and light

Do not expose the cuttings to the sun. Put them in a cool place in summer. In spring and autumn, you can accept the light in the morning and evening, and avoid direct sun at noon

For about 12-15 days, after the root is stable, it can be properly exposed to the sun or placed in a place with good light at home

2. Watering

Either wet the soil before cutting, slightly wet it, or pour the soil thoroughly immediately after cutting, and keep the soil moist at ordinary times. Don't pour too much water, or the root will rot

Some problems in cutting

1. Cutting false live

Some branches begin to sprout and grow leaves soon after cutting. Don't be happy too early. It's very likely to be fake work. That is, the original nutrients are all supplied to the buds, but not the roots

How to judge: if the old leaves on the branches wither before sprouting, it's all right; If the old leaves are good and the buds grow, nine times out of ten they are fake

What to do with fake work: don't touch it. If you want to save it, remove the new buds, retain nutrition, and see if you can grow roots again. Or you're resigned to fate and wait for it to run out of oil

2. Pot change after Cutting Rooting

Generally, after cutting and rooting, the seedling will grow some leaves continuously. After it grows 3-5 leaves, it will stop growing. This is a normal phenomenon of root accumulation. Don't touch it. This process will last for half a month before considering changing the basin

When changing the basin, be sure to take the soil with you and don't remove the soil on the roots. This can not only protect the new roots, but also serve the basin as soon as possible after changing the basin

Pour water into the basin after changing, and put it indoors to avoid direct sunlight. You can contact the sun in the morning and evening after about 2-3 days, and you can maintain it normally after half a month

These cutting tips

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