Pruning method

Single stem pruning and shaping method

1. Pruning and coring methods in the first year

In the winter of the first year, the robust branches of one-year-old seedlings were selected for trunk culture, leaving about 1750px short cut

Leave a bud opposite to the direction of the lower interface bud under the shear as the extension branch of the trunk. The other branches from the trunk of the shear should be strong and weak, and used as auxiliary branches, which should be sparse when the crown is formed.

In order to make the Chimonanthus praecox blossom before forming, the medium and short branches on the trunk should be cut in summer to promote branching. The heart should be picked after every three pairs of buds, and sometimes even when one or two pairs of buds occur. The summer cutting generally stops after March to June and July to August.

 2. Second year pruning method

In the winter of the second year, the trunk is extended and the branch is short cut, leaving a bud under the cutting mouth to change the direction. In order to prevent the overgrowth of lateral branches under the scissor from competing with the central branch, two pairs of lateral branches under the scissor bud must be cut off. The left lateral branches are only used as auxiliary branches, which should not be short cut, but should slow down and grow.

In summer, pick the heart to control the growth of lateral branches and promote the growth of main branches.

3. Pruning method in the third year

The winter of the third year was the same as that of the previous year, except that the top of the main stem was cut off to prevent it from extending and increasing again, and the buds scattered in three directions were left under the cutting mouth as the main branches.

In order to make it continue to elongate, after branching, leave 15 ~ 500px cutting tips according to the growth strength, and leave a bud at the cutting mouth to change the direction of the new branch and weaken the growth.

If the upper and lower opposite buds are left, a section can be cut off together with the mother branch in summer, leaving the square buds as branches.

Select an oblique branch within the range of 750px from the three main branches to the trunk, cut off the apex, and leave a lateral bud as a lateral branch at the cutting mouth. 3. The upper and side branches of the main branch shall be arranged on the corresponding side to avoid overlap.

The other branches on the main branch, if strong, leave the basal bud and cut it again; The golden mean is long, the weak branch leaves 1 ~ 2 buds and is short cut, and two medium and short branches will be sent next year.

4. Pruning method in the fourth year

The cutting method in the fourth year is the same as before, but the second lateral branch is in the opposite direction.

Main branch pruning and shaping method

According to the concise pruning method of flowers and ornamental trees, cultivate three main branches and then divide them into lateral branches. Leave 3 ~ 5 short sections for the flower branches, and the new branches are up to 10 cm long. Pick the heart to promote flower bud differentiation.

Three type pruning and shaping method

The plant shape sends out 3 main branches directly from the root.

Multi dry pruning and shaping method

In the first year, more than 3 strong branches directly from the root and evenly distributed around are directly used as the trunk, and they are short cut with a length of 3 ~ 5 nodes.

In the second year, hoop the trunk properly, and the main branches are clustered to avoid overlapping branches and Cross branches.

Specific operation

Reserved trunk

Chimonanthus praecox has strong sprouting ability and often germinates a large number of long branches from the root, but these long branches generally do not differentiate flower buds. Therefore, Chimonanthus praecox should retain a 30 cm trunk, cultivate three main branches, and then give birth to lateral branches.

Pick the heart and cut the tip

After the tree crown is basically formed, the extended branches of the main branches shall be picked or cut in summer to weaken their growth. The weak branches are supported by pillars to make them in the vertical direction and enhance their growth. In winter, cut 1 / 3 of each of the three main branches to promote the germination of new buds, from which excellent lateral branches can be selected. The side branches on the pruned main branches shall be gradually shortened from top to bottom to make them scattered.

Short cut lateral branch

The flower buds of Chimonanthus praecox are solitary in the branches and nodes, and are differentiated from the axillary buds of the current year's new branches. At the apex of short cut lateral branches, 3 to 4 slightly longer lateral branches can be formed at the upper part, and many small lateral branches can be formed at the lower part. These lateral branches are the main flowering branches and will produce a large number of flower buds.

Fruit removal, heart picking and back cutting

After flower withering, on the one hand, the young fruits should be removed, on the other hand, they should be cut back in time. When cutting back, keep 3 pairs of buds at the base to promote more branches of Chimonanthus praecox. The terminal buds can also be removed after 2 to 3 pairs of buds grow from the new branches, and the hearts can be removed for 2 to 3 times to promote the germination of secondary shoots.

Shoot cutting

At the end of summer and the beginning of autumn, the top of the new shoots of the current year should be removed to make the flower buds of the middle and lower branches develop fully and plump, so as to prepare for flowering in winter. Generally, 4 to 5 pairs of buds are left on 10 cm branchlets.

Potted treatment

For potted Chimonanthus praecox, after two pairs of buds are reserved for the annual branches after flowering, the rest should be cut off.